Nurture vs. Nature: Greenways Hotel in Cape Town

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Greenways was built in the 1920s as a replica of the presidential mansion- Groote Schuur

African hospitality, German efficiency, and the grace of the Cape – man, if that isn’t a recipe for rare and exceptional, then what is?

I spent three nights at Greenways last week, and it was terribly hard to drag myself away on the final morning. My rooms (they put me in the Clivia suite – separate and generously large lounge and bedroom) were comfortable without being intimidatingly over decorated, and the bathroom was superb – everything thought of and thought through.

But there’s no point in going on and on about the facilities, the extensive gardens, the huge swimming pool, the evocative Cape Dutch architecture, the impeccable interiors – as wonderful as they are – because what really makes Greenways different is its people.

As a tourism professional I am perhaps overly critical, but I couldn’t fault the staff of Greenways in any way. Every single one of them – from receptionist to night auditor, landscaper to waitress – was genuinely friendly (without being familiar), and every one of them showed that they cared for their guests.

I put this down to great recruitment, and even better training. In fact Susanne Faussner-Ringer, the hotel’s managing director, told me that the staff spends most of the quiet winter months in training, and – having had to listen so often to so many hotel owners boasting about the millions they

The gardens at Greenways produce much of the restaurant's vegetable and herb requirements. And much of the tranquility, too

spend on refurbishment and decorating – this was, for me, way, way more impressive.

And the results show.

The restaurant – Ashton’s – is open to guests and the public. I ate in every night. Being vegetarian was no problem (it often is in carnivorous South Africa) – and on the third night, since I didn’t want what was on the menu, I asked if I could perhaps have a stir fry?

“Of course!” And it was damned good.

And by the way – try the jams at breakfast. Susanne makes them: 115 varieties, she told me.

I was in Cape Town for the E-Tourism Africa Summit, and Greenways is conveniently situated for a quick 10 minute drive to the ICC (if you avoid rush hour, of course). But it also felt a lot like home, and I found that I was able to relax more than I would normally when I’m away on business like that. And I put that down to the staff, and the way they treated me.

Now let’s contrast this with the hotel I stayed in for SATTIC, which we’ll call (no names, no pack drill) the Protea Hotel OR Tambo.

One person: I met one person (a maître d’ at breakfast) who seemed both friendly and properly trained for her jo

Beauty. Good friend

b. And by the time I left the conference, I just couldn’t wait to check out of my room.

One story: I sat down to my first meal in the hotel’s cavernous, echoing, noisy restaurant, and a pretty little thing came up to me and said “Whaddaya want?”

I asked for a bath. She laughed.

So I suggested a menu. After ten minutes, she obliged.

I asked for a cola tonic and soda, and a grilled hake.

After fifteen minutes (I checked), a SECOND person arrived and said – “That girl’s a trainee, so she’s not allowed to take your order.

“So whaddaya want?”

I was just too damned irritated to fight, and too tired, thirsty, and hungry to walk out and go and look for a greasy spoon at the airport (which is just five minutes away) where at least I’d be my own waiter. So I repeated my order and spent another fifteen minutes trawling Twitter while I waited for my drink.

Have no idea how long the plate of fish and three (or was it four?) French fries took to arrive.

Now here’s the thing: room-for-room, there’s no way you can compare  the capital cost of Greenways with the capital cost of the hotel that shall remain nameless. But you know what? It doesn’t matter, because that’s wêreld se goed.

It’s the way I was treated by the staff that made the difference. And that comes down to training, which speaks of management’s care for its fellow humans, its commitment to the principles of responsible tourism – and what it really, actually, deep down, truly feels about its guests.

Also at Greenways, Beauty, the cat. Give her a petting for me wouldya? She’s as sweet natured and friendly as everyone else I met there.

And with cats, that takes some training.

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